HP Touchsmart TX2, nejde obraz

[duneha]

Ahojte mam doma tento otocny dotykovy notebook. Problem je je z nicoho nic pri zapnuti nejde obraz resp. nejde podsvietenie, ale stava sa to uplne nahodne. Ked ide tak ide v kuse aj 5-10hod ale niekedy ked ho zapnem tak je len cierna obrazovka (ostatne vsetko pracuje). Niekedy ide aj tak, ze 20 krat ho zapnem a vypnem tak ide, potom ho napr. restartujem a tma. Potom ho zase necham oddychnut, niekedy nabehne, inokedy nie.

Mam aj druhy LVDS kabel, vymena nepomohla, skusal som aj nejaky tvrdy reset - podrzat 30 sec zapinanie tlacitko - nepomohlo.

Podotykam, ze ked prepojim notebook na externy monitor tak obraz ide.
Takze si myslim ze defekt GPU nie je na mieste.

Uz som zufaly, poradte.

Dakujem

[mirosne]

Invertor,studeňáky.

[duneha]

LCD panel ma ale LED podsvietenie.

[petr_]

U těhle notebooků bývá problém s nvidia gpu, může se to pak chovat všeljak.

[duneha]

Je tam chipset ATI AMD Radeon IGP RS780M s integrovanou ATI Radeon 3000. Nejde mi to ale do hlavy ze na externom monitore obraz ide uplne v pohode.

[p32]

Už ti psali invertor nebo studeňáky, což bude asi pravda. To, že je tam LED podsvícení, znamená, že sice odpadá invertor, ale funguje to podsvícení ? Já osobně bych řekl, že ti prostě blbne. Zkus posvítit silnou baterkou jestli tam je obraz. Pokud je, blbnou kontakty u LED podsvícení. Pokud ne, blbne grafika - studenti.
Výstup na externí monitor je zvlášť od výstupu na interní monitor. A právě ta cesta na interní monitor nebo jeho podsvícení případně napájení podsvícení ti blbne. Zjistit, co pracuje stále a vylučovací metodou lze najít kurvítko.

[Vogon]

LED pásy v LCD panelech jsou v naprosté většině případů napájeny DC/DC konvertorem, takže zkontroluj jestli DCkonvertoruje.

[petr_]

Ten konvertor bývá součást panelu - vadný jsem to ještě neviděl. Spíš proměřit - 3.3 V enable, 12-14V napájení, 3.3V PWM řízení jasu. Na LCD panelu bývají testpointy.

[Vogon]

Já zrovna včera. proto jsem to sem psal.

[duneha]

Takze pani, ani jeden z Vas nema pravdu, po strastiplnom hladani som nasiel clanok ktory dany problem popisuje:

I have this problem with my Tx2-1020; it started about 3 months after I got it. The problem is probably more closely related to the amount of time that the computer is used than to the amount of time that it is owned.
To respond properly to some of the posts above (I know they are old but they deserve a good answer):

The problem is NOT in the video driver board (aka the Graphics Card). It is certainly not due to this board overheating (as one person said), because (as everyone has experienced) the problem occurs alot when the computer (and hence the card) is cold.

The problem is NOT in the BIOS, because the problem begins at startup, and is present BEFORE the bootup sequence gets to the BIOS. You see it in the initialization image that is displayed during POST before BIOS,.

The problem is NOT in the screen refresh rate. There have been times when I changed the refresh rate and the problem went away, but that was because the computer was already warmed up, and changing the refresh rate turns the screen off and then on again. Also I have been able to make the problem go away by putting the computer into sleep mode and then immediately waking it up, which also turns the screen off and on again, but without letting it cool down inside.

The problem is NOT due to the presence or absence of the battery. It cannot be cured by draining the battery. That is just ridiculous. We are really degenerating into voodoo technology with this one. And the one about exposing the screen to direct sunlight.

The problem is certainly NOT in the Operating System (Windows) because if it was it could not be cured by warming up the computer!!

The problem is NOT in the Motherboard , the Graphics Card, the BIOS, NOR in any software; it can NOT be fixed by replacing any of these items! The problem is in the HARDWARE of the Screen.

Let's apply a little HARDWARE logic to this problem, differentiating between the Screen and the image that is displayed on it. When you open the computer, the bad area is the lower 2/3 of the image, which is (at that time) in the part of the Screen that is nearest to the hinge.
If you turn the Screen around (to Tablet position), the problem moves to the upper part of the image, but this is still the part of the Screen that is closest to the hinge! The problem stays in the same area of the PHYSICAL SCREEN!

Notice that the bad part of the image is always the 2/3 of the SCREEN that is closest to the HINGE! When you rotate the Screen, the problem rotates with it! The problem is related to the Screen, NOT to the image!
This tells me that the problem is somewhere in the SCREEN HARDWARE, and NOT in the Motherboard, Display Driver, Graphics Card, BIOS, nor in Windows either. Replacing ANY of these is NOT going to solve ANYTHING.

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The problem is in the electronic circuits that drive the Screen. These are located in the Screen Module, not in the Main Body of the Computer. The silver foil does not make electrical contact with the gold strip on the Screen's circuit board (see the post above by jkrudde on 7/05/10) until they are warm from being operated for a while. Running the web browser or Office will not warm the screen up enough - you nust run a graphics-intensive program like Windows Media Player, watching a movie full-screen. When the Screen gets warm, something inside expands enough to make the electrical contact, and the problem disappears. But then to keep it working you must continue running the graphics program (not in the background), because if all you run is the Browser or other non-graphics programs, the screen will cool down and the problem will re-appear.


Takze robi to LCD PANEL konkretne ta strieborna folia v nom.